Smardale Gill

Smardale Gill NNR in Cumbria is one of my favourite reserves, not just for the reserve itself but also for the walk to it. There are two usual ways in, either across country from Ravenstonedale, or via the narrow roads just south of Kirkby Stephen railway station. This time we took the latter route, along a single track road that's fringed with wild flowers, including this two foot-tall harebell which I think is the tallest I've ever seen.

 From this direction the footpath into the reserve follows the bed of a disused railway track through woodland and where the canopy opens out it forms a linear woodland glade that stretches for over a mile, fringed with flowers like this wild angelica.

The ripening stone brambles Rubus saxatilis were a reminder that summer is moving on.

Stone bramble berries look wet even when it's not raining.

A good crop of hazel nuts too.

The woodland glade footpath is also a great place to watch spotted flycatchers

Eventually the footpath opens out at the right-hand end of this fine old railway viaduct across Scandal Beck

At this point you can turn left off the footpath and walk through limestone grassland on the east side of the valley ...

.... the footpath you can see on the left here takes you all the way down to Ravenstonedale, below that big hill in the distant Howgills.

Alternatively you can walk across the viaduct, taking in the view to the north across the treetops of Smardale Gill wood (accessible only with a permit from the Cumbrian Wildlife Trust)

The footpath on the far side of the viaduct continues through some of the finest flowery limestone grassland imaginable, past these impressive old lime kilns...

There is a stark contrast between the plant species diversity along the old railway line and in the improved sheep pasture that you can see in the middle distance here, where very few plant species survive. The railway industry, by fencing off the limestone grassland, effectively saved it from a similar fate and the wonderful floral diversity along this part of the line owes its survival to the Victorian railway company that bought the land and built the lines.

Here's an example - a wonderful patch of betony, greater burnet and bedstraw (double-click for a bigger image).

The most impressive flowers, though, are the fragrant orchids - literally hundreds of them. The scent was intoxicating at mid-day - it must be amazing as dusk, when the fragrance is stronger.

This is Jacob's ladder Polemonium caeruleum - unlikely to be native here and almost certainly a garden escape, but lovely nevertheless

The far side of the valley looks like plain grassland from a distance, until you walk through it ...

 

... and find that it's full of limestone-loving wild flowers like this harebell, which makes it an idyllic spot for a picnic.

Field scabious .....

... and rock-rose

A spider had woven a coccoon into this flowering head of quaking grass.

This part of the reserve is probably best known for its butterflies, like these mating common blues ...

... and the much rarer Scotch argus, with its chocolate-brown and orange colour scheme. On a sunny day they are very active, so it's hot work photographing them...

... but this one, possibly newly emerged, was more accommodating.

Green fritillaries are the other notable breeding butterflies here and usually the best place to photograph them is on thistles, when they feed, but this one was indulging in some sunbathing.

Brimstone moth

This very attractive brimstone moth Opisthograptis luteolata turned up in our garden, most likely breeding on our neighbour's hawthorn tree. It looks like it has freshly emerged from a pupa, because its proboscis is fully extended (double-click for a clearer view). It's odd that brimstone moth caterpillars are amazingly well camouflaged, resembling dead twigs, while the adults are so conspicuous. The hawthorn tree were this moth probably bred is visited by various tits several times a day so the caterpillars need to be well hidden to have any chance of survival - the odds of making it through the life cycle to become a moth must be pretty unfavourable - but then the adult flaunts this bright colour scheme that must make it an easy target unless it's very well hidden during the daylight hours. 

The top picture was taken with flash and the lower one with natural light, which goes to show how different forms of illumination can affect the recording of colour in butterflies and moths.

Two Rivers

This is the Arkle Beck above Reeth. Downstream it flows into the river Swale, which is shallow and fast-flowing in summer but has a reputation for rising very rapidly after rain and quickly becoming a  dangerous raging torrent.

The view southwards, across Swaledale, from the beck-side path between Reeth and Langthwaite.

Much of the land around here on the steep valley sides is very rough sheep pasture - where sometimes you find these large puffball toadstools - this might be Lycoperdon utriforme. It's about six inches in diameter and this is an old specimen that's partially disintegrated but still has millions of spores inside.

The most colourful flowers in the pastures at this time of year are the musk thistles Carduus nutans, identifiable by their nodding heads and backward-swept spiny bracts behind the flowers.

Wensleydale, the next Yorkshire dale to the south, and this is the river Ure looking very placid as it flowers through Wensley.

The riverbank footpath that runs westwards from the bridge across the river here has some very fine displays of wild flowers at the moment, including meadowsweet, meadow crane'sbill, yellow loosestrife, giant bellflower, harebells and marjoram.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

This is yellow loosestrife Lysimachia vulgaris, leaning over the footpath, almost demanding to be photographed.

The riverside footpath leads out through woodland into pastures and in one we found this magnificent, solitary patch of musk mallow Malva moschata. The whole field was full of dull pasture grasses except for a broad pit in one corner, that might have been excavated for gravel at some point but now acts for a refuge for plants that must have been here before the pasture was 'improved'.

One of the finest patches of musk mallow I've ever seen, at the peak of flowering.

 Musk mallow makes an excellent late-flowering addition to a wild flower garden, that can hold its own amongst showy cultivated plants and doesn't become invasive.

It provides a good supply of pollen and nectar for bees. This one has empty pollen baskets and seemed to be after the nectar, but must have been almost blinded by that dense covering of pollen it's picked up on its head.