The river Wear
begins its great loop around Durham cathedral peninsula here, at Elvet bridge.
It’s always a busy spot. Aside from the rowing crews and scullers training for
regattas, there are tourists in hired rowing boats and a constant passage of
joggers, cyclists and walkers along the riverbank footpath. Mostly busy people
on their way to somewhere, but it’s often a good place to just stand and stare:
there can be interesting birds here. In winter there were goosanders fishing.
In early spring little grebes took up residence for a while: energetic divers
that we timed submerged for twenty seconds, leaving us guessing where they
might reappear, sometimes popping up just a few feet away from the
bank.
The footpath was
busy today. As I reached a narrow, elevated section of the path I moved over
against the wall to make way for a rowing coach, balanced precariously on his
bike as he chased his novice crew and bellowed encouragement from the bank.
While he passed I glanced over the wall, towards the river and there was a
kingfisher, perched on an overhanging willow. A perfect spot for fishing, where
the water is clear, where sunlight glints on silver scales of fish that
congregate in the warm shallows.
We stared at each
other for what can only have been a few seconds, but these birds seem to
concentrate surrounding energy and release it in a mesmerising azure and orange
spark, an electric shock of plumage that makes time stand still. Totally
unexpected, completely captivating: a gift of a bird.
And then it was
gone, streaking off upriver, skimming the water, streaking past the oarsman and
disappearing under Elvet bridge. King of the river.